a normal evening

It is Ramadan here. Ramadan is the Muslim month of fasting. It means that if you are a practicing Muslim you may eat a meal before the sun rises and before the morning prayer and then you may not eat or drink or put anything in your mouth until after 7pm. This is a tradition which is about self discipline, faith, devotion and also about connecting with those who are less fortunate than yourself...really understanding what going without means...even if the going without is food, cigarettes, sex...
Anyway- for those of us who are not Muslim Ramadan is still a part of the energy here. People are tired, sluggish, potentially cranky...and resturants are only open at certain times- especially if they are Malay resturants. Well, our favorite resturant is Malay- and we usually go there once a week. The other night when we went we saw most tables were reserved....hummm? Well, it turns out that many Muslims reserve tables during Ramadan so they have a spot come 7pm for their evening meal!I would do that too if I was fasting everyday for a month! Anyway- here are some pictures of us...Nevi goofing around...and of the red bean soup and banana fritters comonly eaten during Ramadan. Our dear friend, Yen who works at this resturant sent us home with extra soup and fritters.....blessing!

tv

As many of you know, we have seriously limited screen time for Nevi. Before the age of 3- she watched NOTHING. Then at 3 she watched the occasional Wiggles video...then at 5 due to school and exposure we let her watch a bit of PBS kids- her first television viewing. Well guess what, moving here has blown all of that out of the water. Due to the humid hot weather, the lack of friends, the lack of a backyard and the lack of ability to just simply jump min the car and go....Nevi now loves Tom & Jerry, Pink Panther, Wonder Pets and even watches them in Chinese! As an educator and psychologist and mother- I can now say with out a doubt screen time for children directly effects behavior. Especially for children who are easily over stimulated. Now, I really get it.

Good morning sunshine!

This was the other day...my first morning with delicious coffee and a scrumpuous breakfast: shredded chicken with cabbage scrambled into eggs!

space

I was told not to hang things on the walls here in our apartment. And so I listened to that advice for awhile...but the other day I realized we just could not settle with our few treasured art pieces leaning on shelves. Our space was not feeling quite right.I am sensitive to the environments. So I took out some of the removable plastic hooks I brought with us from the US and started hanging. The first thing was Nevi's Mermaid painting painted by her Aunt Gina- right over her bed it went. Ahhhh comfort. Then into our room to hang our Heather B McGarry painting that I have had for years and years. It went right over our bed- ok not quite to scale, but ahhhh comfort. Both paintings means the world to us- soothe- inspire- helps to create a space I want to be in...so thanks Heath and Gina for your creative fire and thanks removable hooks...our space is feeling more like us.

clouds

The weather here is tropical in so many ways. Some days the sun is so bright and clear. Other days there is haze. Every day it is hot and humid, really humid. The kind of humid that keeps your skin smooth and damp...if you did not have aircon...you would be wet after drying off from the shower. I have never been an air conditioning fan...not only for our dear environment, but also cause it just feels weird to not have fresh air. Well, I have changed. I worship aircon as it is called here. Every now and again , I turn it off and open our doors and windows and let the air blow through. But more often than not- the doors are closed and slight aircon is cooling our world. Every afternoon at this time of the year...clouds roll in, mostly creating thunder and lightening storms that would wow you. It gets really dark, thunder crashes, bolts of lightening fly, eventually the rain comes and wow does it come...flash flooding in the streets and then it passes. This picture is of some clouds which are brewing to bring the days rain to this tropical world.

a girl has to do what a girl has to do

So- Malaysia does produce coffee.I know it does, but have no idea where to buy it...can't find it in the market or the grocery????!!! Anyway, for some reason the popular coffee drinks are made with Nescafe- the dried instant stuff. Well, I drank it for awhile and actually liked it- especially over ice. But here is the difference between being on vacation and living somewhere...the novalty has time to wear off. The other day, I realized I needed to be able to make real coffee. For me, yes...but also if I wanted to inivte someone over...a common thing is to offer tea or coffee. Well, I was not going to serve up some crystalized coffee grinds. So, on a shopping trip the other day, I searched for a coffee press (called a plunger in Australia). Couldn't find one anywhere- so my new friend, Kate said- go to Starbucks. Yup right here in our grocery there is a Starbucks. I had not been in as it felt a bit to strange to go to Starbucks in Malaysia. But I went in...and this is what I came out with~

Gluten Rice balls with peanut butter

This is not a good photo- but for dessert we had glutenous rice balls with peanut inside. I did not make them, but I did boil them and well- they started to fall apart. No problem we just ate them fast! This is a popular Chinese treat along with sesame balls! Not super sweet, and seriously yum!

more food

So who says you can't blend Asian, Italian and Western all in one meal. When you have a one burner hot plate and a microwave- you would be amazed what you can blend. Satay is a staple food on the streets here. Lots of skewers with different meats being grilled over charcoal. These are classic chicken with a honey type sauce dipped into a spicy peanut sauce. Then we have creamy polenta with parm cheese and tomato/mushroom sauce and good old classic salad!Not so bad~

Nevi and Hannah

This is Hannah. She lives here at Pulai Springs with her Mom, Kate and her, Dad, Mike. Mike is the General Manager of this place.We call him Mr. Mike, Bossman. They are from Australia. They are wonderful and Hannah is a delightful playmate for Nevi. Hannah will be 9 in a few weeks. We are lucky to have them here where we live!

Lunch by the pool

In celebration of Nevi's first day on summer holiday from school- she had lunch at the pool bar! I enjoyed a fresh squeezed watermelon juice and she had iced chocolate milk, heart shaped chicken nuggets and fries! Oh yah! We sat on the pool stools under water and talked about all we had to be grateful for...our daughter is really getting daily lessons in gratitude as well as comprehending socio-economic difference. I am amazed at the depth of her empathy and understanding. We could all take lessons from the unobstructed truths a child observes- even sitting at the resort pool bar!

Summer Holiday

This week, Nevi is on summer holiday! We spent much of the day at the pool. Crazy- gorgeous place, school holiday for most of Malaysia and the beginning of Ramadan and we were the only people at the pool! I can't believe we live here, and I can't believe how cute our daughter's booty is!

Singapore

We had such a lovely weekend in Singapore, but I forgot our camera! That is a first. You will just have to believe us that we had fun staying at our friend's the Deininger's condo...we had fun exploring the Science Center...Devin had a great hike in the Bukit Timah Natural Reserve...we had fun with the girls swimming and playing and carrying on. Devin and I had a lovley Saturday evening walk and dinner out and we had an all around delightful time. Even bought some groceries to bring over the border...Annie's salad dressing, Kettle totilla chips (from Oregon no less), polenta, black beans in the can, tortillas, natural peanut butter, rice crackers, cheddar and monteray Jack cheese...just a few favorites which we can't get in JB. Oh Singapore thanks for being so close and yet so far!

time

I am being given a great gift. Even though my life is filled with change and the challenges of living in a new culture. And even though things that are usually effortless require much energy right now. I am reminded today in the quiet of Devin being at work and Nevi being at school- that I have a few hours each day of quiet to reflect. I do not want to lose sight of this gift. At home, I fill my existence with way too much. To much clutter, say yes to too many things, manage working, mothering, volunteering, tending to others, etc. Of course these are all things I love, but right now- today... I am grateful for the slowness of these three hours I have alone. Whether I choose to work out at the little gym here, or research our next travel adventure, or write...I am aware of this time of quiet. I need this time of quiet.I deserve this time of quiet.
I only wish my dear husband had the same opportunity. The guy is working so hard with very little outlet for himself. I hope the folks at Xerox know how lucky they are to have Devin...his work ethic, his brain, his energy, and his commitment. I trully hope he is appreciated as much as Nevi and I appreciate him! I hope for him in the coming days some time for him....to explore or read or mountain bike or raft or trek or something. Something just for him. I better get on making that happen. Just some thoughts for today from the quiet.

Chinese Dumplings

Another quest complete. I wanted to learn how to make dumplings and so I did. I am learning a great deal about asian cooking through the use of the internet. I had hoped to have a chef teach me...but oh well, I am still learning. I cheated a bit and bought the wrappers already freshly made...good call. I made up the inside because we have not been eating much meat here in Malaysia. Johor Bahru markets do not have the most fresh meats- so we are skipping it unless eating out. Usually dumplings are made with pork or ground chicken, but ours are eggplant, bok choy and cabbage mixed with garlic, oyster sauce and a bit of soy and brown sugar. I scooped a bit into each wrap...watered the edge and pinched them closed. Now, they are supposed to be closed with a scalloped edge. Not as easy as it sounds. I even watch a utube how to video- but no can do...YET! I will try again. I decided to steam some of them and fry some to see which was better. They were both good, but we liked the texture of fried better.
Nevi was my greatest supporter and said, "Mum, you did it. These are awesome! Made my heart swell!

Surprise!!!!

Nevi got the most wonderful surprise and gift today in the mail. Perfect timing as she has really been vocalizing how she is missing her friends at home. Today she got a birthday package from her cousin, Ellery. Ellery along with Aunt Gina had made absolutley gorgoeous dressup clothes for a teddy bear named Pudding that Ellery had given to Nevi awhile back. Ellery had made a robe, a halter dress and a pink poncho for Pudding. Nevi was beyond thrilled!!! Has not put her down since. Thank you Aunt Gina....and thank you Ellery!!!!! Nevi loves loves loves the gift.

Nevi's dinner

So with all my Asian cooking- last night good old kinda western fare for Nevi...kinda quesadilla...made with Roti and boring cheese & fresh veggies. She loved it!

Singapore Botanical Garden: Orchid garden

Devin and Nevi spent some father/daughter time in the Orchid garden on Sunday. We would not even be able to post all the pictures of the wonderous orchid's they found. Here is a small sample. They both loved going into the cool house. It is where the mountain orchid's live, and is kept cool with cold mist.

Children's Garden

Last Sunday while in Singapore, we we went to the Children's Garden which is in the Botanical Gardens. WOW! It has a children's cafe with little chairs, an iron tree sculture made of children, and the gardens are incredible. They are educational as well. A spice garden, a fruit section, a photosynthesis section and then water fountains and climbing structures....really really sweet.

Little India dinner

On Saturday night, Devin and I had the rare opportunity to have some adult time on a double date with Pete and Michelle. They have a live in helper, Marlin, and she stayed with the kids while we went out. We went to Little India in Singapore where I had never been. OH my I LOVED IT! Seriously, you walk down the side walk smelling incense, seeing the most beautiful women dressed in sari's, shining, glitter, silk...smelling so good...resturants wafting the flavors and smells that can almost make you fall over they are so delicious, carts with fresh, crisp vegetables, stores filled with sparkling bangle braclets and henna tatoos...oh pure delight. We ate dinner at a resturant on a corner- the road rumbling with life. We sat at a table outside practically in the street, but gently lit. Pete ordered for us as the menu was about 25 pages long...Indian food is one of my favorite pleasures- so how could I choose off a menu that big??? We had Chatta, palak panneer, mutton, lentils, naan with herbs, yougurt sauces, mint sauces, spicy and sweet, saffron rice and Kingfisher beer oh my! Then we strolled around and for fun they took us to this backpacker spot they had stumbled on...on the back patio surrounded by bamboo I looked up and watched Devin drink a beer the color of the northwest and thought....where am I Oregon....oh no Asia!!!! Fun night- best food ever...and great dear new friends.

Anna's 5th Birthday Party

We returned to Singapore this Saturday for our freind, Anna's 5th birthday held at the American Club. We are so grateful for our new freind's Michelle and Pete Deininger. They are a taste of comfort, home, connection, adventure, family and freindship. They kindly had us over for the night after the party. Anna and Nevi have such fun and they had a sleepover...not only in the same room. When we parents came home from dinner out- the girls were curled up together in the same bed sound asleep!Wish I had a picture of that~ Thanks for a great Birthday party, Anna!

another home cooked meal

So last week, I attempted to cook a classic Malaysian Chicken Noodle soup recipe.I did exactly what I read and soaked the fresh noodles, but for some reason they did not seperate instead they began to look like gray molding clay. My first real Asian cooking oops....right into the trash they went ooops!
Needless to say- I steamed some rice and the soup because a classic Malaysian Chicken and rice soup! We had Bok Choy, yellow peppers, carrots, green beans, and egg in it. Then the sauce is oyster sauce, soy and grated thai garlic. You add the sauce to the soup as you like for taste...and then of course I cooked up some roti cause it is good all day everyday! Nevi asked for three servings- woohoo!

Some differences between Singapore and Johor Bahru

My sweet Mom emailed me a good question today. As I wrote, I realized I should just post my response to her...to you...just in case anyone was wondering.

As for the difference between here and Sing….Oh where do I begin? Singapore is clean, buildings are kept up, roads are developed and smooth, people drive with more care, there are endless things to do especially with children, there are western/european/international people everywhere…so many expats and people who choose to live there…endless restaurants, the water from the tap is safe to drink, the public transportation is awesome- buses amazing and a Metro system all over the island. It is EXPENSIVE to live there. Grocery stores carry all the things we get at home. There are so many rules and regulations that the place is completely safe…you can walk anywhere at night even as a woman and nothing will happen to you. Drugs are non existent because if you are caught with them you are put to death. Not kidding. Fines for drunk driving are over $2000 first offense. So it is clean, safe and vibrant.
Johor Bahru- just across the bridge- struggles. This is third world living. Buildings are abandoned because no one can afford to keep them up, buildings are crumbling, or molding or or simply empty. The police takes bribes…so you get pulled over and they say pay a ticket and then the next breath say or pay me now. So if the police can be bribed than anything is possible. People work so hard and make almost nothing. I just found out that one of the drivers here at the resort who drives Nevi to school, Subra who has six children at home makes R1200 a month driving. 1200 ringgit equals about $300 USD. Yes, it is cheap in our standards to live here…but raising 6 children on $300 USD a month is desperate really. There is only one main road that leads North and South…it is in ok repair, but needless to say with so many commuting to get to work…nightmare. Another driver, who I adore- we call him Catfish…he drives 60 KM each day to get to work. Takes him over an hour. Johor Bahru wants to improve- they are trying to build new roads and overpasses to ease the hassle, but the construction takes forever and sometimes does not get completed. There are a few bridges which literally just stop and drop off- no money to continue. With the lack of funds and the lack of regulations, crime is much higher. People can steal and put food on the table even though they also work their asses off to provide for their families. It is not safe for me to walk alone in some places…it is not safe for our family to be out in random places after dark. We are fine in Taman University area here…but not so much down town. It is not unheard of for westerners to be pulled over driving and wallets stolen… but here where we are living I feel absolutely safe- I just do not get out as much as I would like too.
Also with my inability or desire to drive on these crazy roads with crazy drivers…I am trapped. Unlike in Singapore, free as a bird to go wherever I want when I want. So it is a mixed feeling. I love having the more authentic, truthful experience of Malaysia. But from my mother perspective my life would be so much more free, easy and independent if we were living in Singapore. Nevi would have way more friends, we could explore, I would not feel so isolated…but alas in Singapore we would feel like we were just living in a place really similar to home. See the bittersweet? So here is the lesson- to be grateful for exactly WHERE YOU ARE.

Grocery

A few more turns down the road brings us into the Taman University area. We are lucky to live near a university as there needs to be groceries etc for all the students and professors. So here are the two places, we can grocery shop. The yellow building is called Giant and it is contained in the University Mall. Now let me inform you, malls are everywhere here. I am not talking about places like Pioneer Place or Chestnut Hill Mall or Lloyd Center...not that glamourous, but non the less real malls. EVERYONE loves shopping or just hanigng out in a mall. In fact, it is what you do- you might not be buying things, but you meet friends at the mall, you bring your children to play on the indoor play structures, you bring your whole family on Sunday to eat at the food court, you spend your free time wandering and window shopping, you exercise here by walking, you socialize over coffee and kaya toast (kaya is coconut spread with butter on toast)...I am amazed by the mall culture. It is not as much about consumerism as it is about having a place to go, connect, be with others. Now granted, there is shopping and buying happening too- but so different than the US. As I understand it better, I will try and explain more.
The red sign shows the Justco the other place to grocery shop. Justco is like a Fred Meyer or a Costco...it has a grocery section, but also clothes, hardware, kitchen stuff, linens- you name it. The other day we did our weekly shop- filled a grocery cart for $50 USD. Amazing how inexpensive food is here? Now why is it so expensive in the US of A?????? The other picture is just an example of the scooters and taxi's. Doesn't look so crowded or scary in a still photo but trust me- even in this little area...crazy drivers!

Taman Pulai Flora

This is the little shophouse area called Taman Pulai Flora that is very close to where we live- in fact I can even drive her myself- imagine that! So look closely....the neon pink sign is our laundry place. We do not have access to a washer here so we bring our laundry out. The laundry bag is placed in a scale, and we are charged be Kilo...last week we had a full bag and it cost us R18 = ringgit 18= @ $6 USD. Fabulous! Ok and then next door with the yellow umbrella's is our favorite resturant. The people who work there are intrigued with us...we are trying to learn Malay and they help us...they think it is amazing that people who stay at Pulai Springs Resort actually like local food...and we do! Ok then the third picture just shows you what the other shophouses look like down the street. Very quaint and simple- just my style.